A few months back a new soondubu (soft tofu soup) joint opened up in the U District here in Seattle. It is simply called “Korean Tofu House.” I have a love/hate relationship with Korean restaurants in the area. I have documented some of this in previous posts such as here, and here. Most of the time they are in some ways compromised by the likes of teriyaki or orange chicken or any number of non-Korean cuisine. I understand this. I understand that the goal is to run a successful business and often one needs to include chicken katsu on the menu to make it more attractive to the Western palate.
My understanding of this concept; however, does in no way help me get decent Korean food in the U District. There’s Sunney’s Cafe up the street, but I dunno, it has never really done it for me. $7 for a bowl of ramyun? No thanks. There used to be a decent place to get nengmyun: Cold, unyielding buck wheat noodles that often simultaneously occupy your mouth AND your throat; basking in ice cold, sweet and savory broth, and a sliced hard boiled-egg), but that place closed down. A few others have come and gone. Most of them had “gyoza” on the menu. Again: No thanks.
So the Korean Tofu House opened up and I ignored it, deferring the inevitable disappointment I’d experience once I had a chance to sit down and have a look at the menu.
But today, randomly and decisively, I decided that today was the big day. No meetings this afternoon (since I clearly smell like an entire bulb of garlic now, I’m sure), it had been a while since I’ve had soondubu, and otherwise, I probably would have ended up with a giant portion of french fries somewhere instead.
The restaurant, located at 4142 Brooklyn Ave NE is small, but not constricting. The menus were simple and to the point, but to be honest, I already knew what I was ordering and so I didn’t linger over the menu very long. I am happy to report that I don’t *think* there was teriyaki on it.
I ordered the pork soon dubu, which, in my opinion is a MUST when evaluating soon dubu. You gotta have the pork (or, you know, beef is OK too).
The banchan usually comes out first. For me, the arrival of the banchan has always been a study in personal style and hunger level at the table. If one starts digging into the banchan right away, even before the arrival of the rice, then I figure he or she either has impulse control problems or is very, very hungry. Me? My mother always told me to wait, because the banchan is just too salty to eat by itself. I (almost) always listened to my mother.
When the banchan arrived I was pretty excited. Typically, U District banchan consists of two, maybe three side dishes. THIS place had SIX. Probably two or three dishes short of what I typically experience at a Korean restaurant in South Tacoma or Lynnwood, but nonetheless very, very exciting.
Starting at the top left and moving clockwise there were bean sprouts (the way I like them, not too watery, and just salty enough), onion pancake (pretty good), Ggakdugi (well seasoned, perfect age, maybe not hot or “smoky” enough), spicy bean sprouts (these were a’ight), marinated fried tofu (pretty good, actually: the sauce was just about right), plain ol’ kimchi (pretty much the same complaint as I have about the ggakdugi).
Overall, the banchan was pretty good. I’d say that for the most part, each dish sort of ventured towards too salty. I like salty, so it works for me, but others might not feel that way.
The soon dubu arrived at my table moments later, violently bubbling and twisting about like a fiery cauldron overflowing with spicy black magic. The waitperson, upon receiving my consent, cracked a raw egg into the center of my blistering hot soup. I always enjoy that.
The soup itself didn’t disappoint. It certainly wasn’t the best soondubu I’d ever eaten, but it was far from the worse. The tofu could have been softer, the soup could have been spicier, but the balance of the ingredients was on point and I was definitely not mad at it. It lacked the smoky, rich endorphin-inducing heat that other soups often have in them, but again, it all worked well enough.
My total bill was less than $9. And I have leftover soup.
I’m going to go back. Soon. The next time I go I may opt to order one of the staple Korean meat dishes (bulgogi or spicy pork) or perhaps see how well they do bibimbap (which, incidently, you can get a decent bowl of at a couple of places here in the U District). I will also be sure to examine the menu a little more carefully to determine whether they have nengmyun, since it’s going to be in season soon.
It wasn’t perfect, but today, my heart was warmed by the presence of an uncompromised Korean restaurant serving uncompromised Korean food. I hope they keep it up and ignore the confused looks and nervous questions they receive from their less adventurous patrons. I hope they don’t ever, EVER serve teriyaki. Soon dubu diluted with the salty tears of the ashamed are definitely not good eats.
Join me next time?